I was two red 5 volts short of the ATX pinout. The Molex Mini-Fit Jr.™ connector is exactly the same with the same keying as used on ATX motherboards. I then grouped the wires by color, separating the v1 and v2 12 volt phases.ġ) I used two 12 volt wires from phase v1 and two ground wires for a 4-pin motherboard P4 power connector.Ģ) I used three 12 volt wires from phase v3 and three ground wires for a 6-pin PCI-E power connector.ģ) I pushed the three unneeded wires, 25 volt, fan tacho and on ground wire into the unused 16-pin connector and attacred it into the inside of the PSU case.Ĥ) All the other wires I connected to the original 24-pin connector using the ATX wiring scheme. This gives power to the hard drives and SuperDrive DVD. I left the 8-pin drive bay connector (P3) as it is. This is what I did: I removed all the wires from the 24-pin (P1) and 16-pin (P2) connectors using pilers and staples. I chose the difficult one, but later decided that there is not really a need to even open the PSU, except maybe for cleaning. There are two ways of rewiring the power supply. (Photo: Intel® Desktop Board D946GZIS, rewired G5 power supply and a start button.) See picture below, but read comments about Power_good at end of post. It works fine with a Intel® Desktop Board D946GZIS. I just rewired the PSU from a 1.8 GHz uniprocessor G5 and tested it with PC motherboards. (Short answer: You may need to fake the POWER_GOOD signal.) Why do you not just use the original power supply? 
Building a CustoMac Hackintosh: Buyer's Guide
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